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General
- Trees keep our air supply fresh by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing
oxygen. - In one year, a single tree can absorb as much carbon as is produced by a
car driven 26,000 miles. - Trees provide shade and shelter, reducing yearly heating and cooling costs
by 2.1 billion dollars. - Trees lower air temperature by evaporating water in their leaves.
- The average tree in metropolitan area survives only about 8 years!
- A tree does not reach its most productive stage of carbon storage for
about 10 years. - Trees cut down noise pollution by acting as sound barriers.
- Tree roots stabilize the soil and prevent erosion.
- Trees improve water quality by slowing and filtering rain water as well as
protecting aquifers and watersheds. - Trees provide protection from downward fall of rain, sleet, and hail as well
as reduce storm run-off and the possibility of flooding, - Trees provide food and shelter for wildlife.
- Trees located along streets act as a glare and reflection control.
- The death of one 70-year old tree would return over three tons of carbon to
the atmosphere.
- Trees are the longest living organisms on earth.
- Trees and other plants make their food through a process called
photosynthesis. - The inside of a tree is made of cork, phloem, cambium, and xylem.
- The xylem of a tree carries water from the roots to the leaves.
- Trees renew our air supply by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing
oxygen. - Two mature trees can provide enough oxygen for a family of four. One tree
produces nearly 260 pounds of oxygen each year. - One acre of trees removes up to 2.6 tons of carbon dioxide each year.
- Shade trees can make buildings up to 20 degrees cooler in the summer.
- Trees lower air temperature by evaporating water in their leaves.
- Tree roots stabilize soil and prevent erosion.
- Trees improve water quality by slowing and filtering rain water, as well as
protecting aquifers and watersheds. - The cottonwood tree seed is the seed that stays in flight the longest. The
tiny seed is surrounded by ultra-light, white fluff hairs that can carry it on
the air for several days.
- One of the tallest soft wood trees is the General Sherman, a giant redwood
sequoia of California. General Sherman is about 275 ft or 84 m high with a
girth of 25 ft or 8 m. - The 236 ft or 72 m high Ada Tree of Australia has a 50 ft or 15.4 m girth and a
root system that takes up more than an acre. - The world's tallest tree is a coast redwood in California, measuring more
than 360 ft or 110 m. - The world's oldest trees are 4,600 year old Bristlecone pines in the USA.
- Dendrochronology is the science of calculating a tree's age by its rings.
- Tree rings provide precise information about environmental events,
including volcanic eruptions. - A mature birch tree can produce up to 1 million seeds per year.
- Moon trees were grown from seeds taken to the moon by Stuart Roosa,
Command Module pilot of the Apollo 14 mission of January 31, 1971. The
effort included 400-500 seeds, which orbited the moon on the first few days
of February 1971. NASA and the USFS wanted to see if being in space and in
the moon's orbit would cause the seeds to grow differently than other
seeds.
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CHAMPAIGN, IL- Winter brings frigid temperatures, icy winds, and plenty of snow. Just as people battle
Mother Nature at this time of the year, so do trees, with one major exception: trees can't avoid
exposure to the elements.
"While your trees seem to be in a state of hibernation in the winter, exposure to the tough conditions
can cause them major stress," said Jim Skiera, Executive Director of the International Society of
Arboriculture (ISA). "Minimize that stress by helping your trees through the cold months, a little at a
time. If you take care of your trees in the winter, you'll be rewarded in the spring."
1. Put composted organic mulch under your tree in the fall or early winter to help retain water and
reduce temperature extremes. A thin layer of mulch will act like a blanket and give the tree's roots a
little extra winter protection.
2. Give your trees a drink. Winter droughts require watering as much as summer droughts. If
temperatures permit, an occasional watering during the winter on young trees can be a life saver. But
be sure to water only when soil and trees are cool but not frozen.
3. Prune your trees. Winter is actually one of the best times to prune because it is easier to see the
structure of trees without their leaves. But limit pruning to deadwood and poorly placed branches in
order to save as many living branches as possible.
4. Prevent mechanical injuries. Branch breakage or splitting can be caused by ice and snow
accumulation, or chewing and rubbing by animals. Prevent problems from occurring on young trees by
wrapping the base of trees in a hard, plastic guard or a metal hardware cloth. Wrapping trees with
burlap or plastic cloth also can prevent temperature damage. Just remember to remove the wraps and
guards in the spring to prevent damage when the tree begins to grow.
CHAMPAIGN, IL- Winter may not be prime time to dabble in the garden. But it is a good time to prune
your trees - especially those that flower in the summer. Not only are trees dormant in the winter, but it
is also easier to see a tree's structure when no leaves are on the branches.
"Proper pruning is vital to the health of trees and plants, in part because it helps relieve stress on
trees and keeps them growing," said Jim Skiera, Executive Director of the International Society of
Arboriculture (ISA). "Just be aware that each tree is different, and pruning at the wrong time or the
wrong way can injure a tree or make it susceptible to disease."
Pruning helps keep surrounding areas safe for people and objects by removing frail branches. But too
much pruning can create more problems than it solves, Skiera added, advising homeowners to prune
annually and lightly instead of all at once. When in doubt, consult a local ISA Certified Arborist for
advice.
What to prune
Deciding what and where to prune involves an understanding of basic tree biology, sharp tools, and
an artful eye. Where you make the cut is as important as knowing what to remove. There are a few
simple principles to understand before you prune:
Always have a purpose in mind before you cut. Removing dead or diseased wood, providing clearance,
or improving shape or structure, are most common.
Proper technique is essential. Poor pruning technique can cause long-term damage. Learn how to
make proper cuts.
Small cuts do less damage to the tree than large cuts. Unlike people, tree wounds don not heal, they
close. Smaller cuts close quicker.
Other helpful tips
- Make cuts just outside the branch collar for quick wound closure.
- Avoid leaving stubs.
- Keep tools sharp and clean.
Champaign, IL - The tree-filled landscapes of winter can be mistakenly thought to be asleep. Wintering
trees are not sleeping; they are simply still - counting the days until spring. Only then will it be
apparent whether the tree has saved enough resources to respond to the new season of growth.
Winter is a difficult time for trees which must stand alone against all circumstances that the season
can generate. Trees have some internal methods of protection. Most of the growing points in the tree
are protected inside jackets called buds, and food reserves are carefully conserved for the coming
needs of spring. Also Water continues to move through the tree until it freezes. However, these
protective stages may breed other problems. For example, creatures needing a meal chew and nibble
on the resting buds and twigs.
What can you do to help your valuable trees? A few things can help a tree be more efficient and
effective in surviving the winter and thriving in spring. These small winter investments can pay off in
a large way, yielding healthy and structurally sound trees.
The "Critical Six" things to do for your tree this winter are:
- Add a thin layer of composted organic mulch to blanket the soil surface. Mulch protects and
conserves tree resources and recycles valuable materials. - Properly wrap new trees that have not developed a corky bark and could easily be damaged.
Mechanical injury from the environment, including chewing and rubbing by animals, must be
prevented. - Remove or correct clearly visible structural faults and deadwood. Try to make small pruning cuts
that minimize the exposure of the central heartwood core on branches. - Perform limited greenwood pruning of declining and poorly placed branches. Pruning should
conserve as many living branches as possible, with only a few selective cuts. - Fertilize with elements needed in small quantities. Essential elements added over a mulch layer
will help provide a healthy soil environment for root growth. - Water where soils and trees are cool but not frozen, and where there has been little
precipitation. Winter droughts need treatment with waters the same as summer droughts.
However, it is easy to overwater in winter, so be careful.
Invest in great trees by helping them over a difficult time. For trees, wonderful springs come from
well-tended winters. Seek assistance from ISA Certified Arborists for the life of your trees!
*Information provided by Dr. Kim Coder, tree specialist, University of Georgia.
CHAMPAIGN, IL - Sufficient water, light, and a proper balance of nutrients greatly influence plant
health. Too much or too little of any of these environmental conditions may cause plant stress.
Environmental stress weakens plants and makes them more susceptible to insect and disease attack.
"We all love being surrounded by nature, but sometimes we need to step in and help protect nature
from itself," said Jim Skiera, Executive Director of the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA).
Diseases
Diseases can be classified into two broad categories: diseases and disorders. Diseases are caused
by infectious or living agents such as fungi, viruses, and bacteria. Disorders are caused by
noninfectious or nonliving agents such as nutrient deficiencies, temperature extremes, vandalism,
and pollutants.
Diseases develop when:
A pathogen is present( disease-causing agent)
A plant is vulnerable to that particular pathogen
The environment is conducive to disease development.
Insects
By sucking sap and boring into the trunk and branches, insects can stunt tree growth. In many cases,
however, the insect problem is secondary to problems brought on by a stress disorder or pathogen.
Insects may be divided into three categories according to their method of feeding.
The best locations with deciduous trees and favorable conditions for brilliant
autumn colors are:
Chewing insects (beetles, caterpillars), eat leaves, flowers, and twigs. Indications of damage by these
insects is often seen by discoloration or notches on leaves.
Sucking insects (aphids, mealybugs), feed on sap within he plant. Drooping, wilting, or the presence
of honeydew often are indications of their presence.
Boring insects (bark beetles), feed beneath the bark of the tree as larvae and continue to reproduce
within the bark. These insects are attracted to stressed trees.
The most important thing to remember is that most insects are beneficial rather than destructive.
They help with pollination or act as predators of more harmful insects. Therefore, killing all insects
without regard to their species and function can actually be detrimental to tree health.
Diagnosis and Treatment
Correct diagnosis requires a careful examination of the situation. You must accurately identify the
plant, look for patterns of abnormality, examine the trunk and branches, and note the position and
appearance of any abnormalities. Treatment depends on many specific factors. Contact your local ISA
certified arborist for further information.
CHAMPAIGN, IL (May, 2004)- Should you prune your trees in the Spring? How deep must fertilizer be
applied to reach the roots of your trees? Which species of trees should be topped to keep them from
falling on your house? Most homeowners treasure the trees on their property but know little about
how to care for them. Much of what you may have heard about tree care is actually incorrect, based
on myths and misconceptions. Here are the top 10 myths of tree care.
MYTH #1: When a tree is planted it should be securely staked to ensure the development of a stable
root system and a strong trunk. Although it is sometimes necessary to stake trees to keep them
upright and allow establishment, there are some adverse effects of staking. Compared to staked
trees, unstaked trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper. Allowing
a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the worst effect of
staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. Staking materials usually
should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling" the tree.
MYTH #2: Newly planted trees should have their trunks wrapped with tree wrap to prevent sunscald
and insect entry. Studies using most common tree wraps have shown that they do not prevent
extreme fluctuations in temperature on the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are
worse. Also, tree wraps have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some
insects like to burrow under it.
MYTH #3: Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to compensate for the loss of
roots. Tree establishment is best on unpruned trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the
amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the
much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger,
more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural
training and the removal of damaged branches.
MYTH #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem to optimize
healing. First of all, trees don't "heal" in the sense that wounds on people heal. Our bodies
regenerate tissues in much the same form of the tissues that were removed (to a limited extent).
Trees compartmentalize wounds, generating woundwood over the wounded area. Flush cutting
removes the "branch collar," creating a larger wound than if the branch were removed outside the
collar. Also, it is likely that some of the parent branch tissue will be removed. The spread of decay
inside the tree is greater with flush cuts.
MYTH #5: Pruning wounds greater than three inches in diameter should be painted with a wound
dressing. Research has shown that the common wound dressings do not inhibit decay, do not
prevent insect entry and do not bring about faster wound closure. In fact, many of the commonly used
dressings slow wound closure.
MYTH #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple and Siberian elm should be
"topped" to make them less hazardous in the landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the
potential hazard at first, they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping stimulates growth of
twigs below the cuts. Growth of many, vigorous shoots leads to branches with weak attachments.
Also decay spreads inside the stubs and branches that were topped. Within 2-5 years after topping,
the tree will have regained its height, but will be more hazardous than before the topping. Besides,
topping makes trees ugly. Alternatives to topping include thinning, cabling, or removal and
replacement with a more suitable species.
MYTH #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will "bleed," stressing the
tree and causing health problems. True, some trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose
sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of
sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime of year. The
worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best time is when the tree is dormant.
To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just after bloom this year.
MYTH #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many people envision a large,
branching taproot growing deep into the soil. Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees.
If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard
subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of
soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the
spread of the crown.
MYTH #9: Trees require "deep root fertilization" to reach their root system. In most U.S. soils, the vast
majority of trees' fibrous, absorbing roots are in the top eight inches of soil. Roots grow where
conditions are best for root growth, where water and oxygen are available. When we place fertilizer
12" - 18" deep in the soil, we are putting it too deep..
MYTH #10: When a tree has lost a significant portion of its root system such as in construction
damage, the crown should be cut back to compensate for root loss. While this is a common
recommendation, research has not supported it. Following root loss, unpruned trees seem to
respond better than pruned trees. Obviously, any removal of branches will reduce the capacity of the
tree to produce food in the leaves. Although the tree will probably lose some branches as a result of
the root damage (if the tree survives the trauma), it is best to let the tree decide which ones. Thus,
pruning should be limited to hazard reduction at first. Later, after the tree has responded to the
damage, further pruning would be in order.
Get advice from an arborist- An arborist is a professional in the care of trees. A qualified arborist can
give you sound advice and can provide the services your trees may need. Good arborists will
perform only accepted practices. When choosing an arborist, look for ISA Certification, membership
in professional associations, and ask for proof of insurance. Be weary of individuals who go
door-to-door offering bargains for doing tree work. Don't be afraid to check references.
CHAMPAIGN, IL - Skies luminous like a paint palette of blended colors, as greens transform to various
hues of red, gold, yellow, brown, and purple in autumn. Each year, leaves change colors and create
beautiful scenery, but why and what exactly gives them their bright colors?
As we enjoy autumn, we can also take pleasure in understanding the color changing process in leaves.
"Numerous factors including geography, growth habits, exposure to light, plant pigments, and weather
conditions all play important roles in the fascinating process," said Jim Skiera, Executive Director of
the International Society of Arboriculture.
Where are leaf colors are the most vivid?
Only a few places in the world have the combination of tree species and climatic conditions necessary
for vivid autumn foliage. Deciduous forests and trees, with their many broad leaves that change color
almost in unison, display the most noticeable autumn colors. Evergreen species also display changes
in color, just slowly and gradually.
The best locations with deciduous trees and favorable conditions for brilliant autumn colors are:
the eastern U.S.;
southeastern Canada;
scattered mountainous locations in western North America; and
Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco surrounding areas.
Why do leaves change color?
A chain reaction occurs when sunlight strikes the pigment in leaves, allowing us to see various leaf
colors throughout the year. Four broad categories of pigment play a crucial role in autumn beauty:
chlorophylls, carotenoids, anthocyanins, and tannins.
During the spring and summer, leaves are the principal site for the photosynthetic process that
transforms carbon dioxide and water into the carbohydrates that fuel tree growth. This food-making
process takes place in numerous cells containing chlorophyll, the pigment that gives leaves their
green color.
As days shorten and temperatures cool in autumn, the synthesis of new chlorophyll drops off, green
color disappears, and the rate of photosynthesis declines. Trees become frugal and more efficient,
pulling nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus into twigs and branches for winter storage, further
enhancing the loss of chlorophyll.
Along with chlorophyll, leaves contain yellow or orange carotenoid, the same pigment that gives
carrots their familiar color. Masked for most of the year by chlorophyll, the carotenoids reveal
themselves in autumn, most noticeable as yellows and golds in tree species such as Norway maples,
Ohio buckeyes, sycamores, birches, and hickories. For example, the golden yellows seen in beech
leaves result from the presence of tannins and carotenoid pigments.
The vivid pink, red, and purple leaves seen on maples, sassafras, sumacs, white and scarlet oaks, and
many other woody plants are formed by reactions between various sugars and complex compounds
called anthocyanins. A mixture of red anthocyanin pigment and yellow carotene often results in the
bright orange color seen in some species of maples.
"Autumn is a unique, distinctive season. It displays an array of vivid bold colors that beautifies the
surroundings," says Skiera.
Fast Facts: Autumn Colors
- Fertile soil enhances the intensity of reds in leaves.
- The more light a leaf is exposed to, the more likely it is to turn red.
- Weather conditions most favorable to brilliant color are warm sunny days followed by cool nights
with temperatures below 45 degrees (not to freezing levels). - Rainy or cloudy days near "peak coloration time" will dampen the intensity of autumn color by
limiting photosynthesis. - Freezing temperatures and heavy frost can kill the brilliance of autumn color by severely injuring
leaves before pigments are fully developed.