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Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime
investment. How well your tree and investment grows
depends on the type of tree and location you select for
planting, the care you provide when the tree is planted,
and follow-up care the tree receives after planting.
The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the
dormant season ? in the fall after leafdrop or early spring
before bud-break. Weather conditions are cool and allow
plants to establish roots in the new location before spring
rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth.
However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or
garden center, and given the appropriate care during
transport to prevent damage can be planted throughout
the growing season. In either situation, proper handling
during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for
new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your
tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities
located prior to digging.
If the tree you are planting is balled and burlapped, or
bare rooted, it is important to understand that the tree's
root system has been reduced by 90-95% of its original
size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused
by the digging process, trees will commonly exhibit what
is known as transplant shock. Transplant shock is
indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following
transplanting. Proper site preparation before and during
planting coupled with good follow-up care will reduce the
amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock
and will allow the tree to quickly establish in its new
location. Carefully follow eight simple steps and you can
significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the
time of planting.
"It's better to put a $100 tree in a $200 hole than to put a
$200 tree in a $100 hole."
1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide,
as much as three times the diameter of the root ball, but
only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the
hole wide because the tree roots on the newly
establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in
order to establish. On most planting sites in new
developments, the existing soils have been compacted
and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up
the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly
emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten
establishment.
2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the
roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be
partially visible after the tree has been planted (see
diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may
have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball.
Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to
be for proper planting.
3. Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the
tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug
to the proper depth and no more. The majority of the roots
on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches
of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have
difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen. It is better to
plant the tree a little high, 2-3 inches above the base of
the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original
growing level. This will allow for some settling (see
diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the
hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the
trunk.
4. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin
backfilling have someone view the tree from several
directions to confirm the tree is straight. Once you begin
backfilling it is difficult to reposition.
5. Fill the hole, gently but firmly. Fill the hole about 1/3 full
and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the
root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and burlapped, cut and
remove the string and wire from around the trunk and top
1/3 of the root ball (see diagram). Be careful not to
damage the trunk or roots in the process.
Fill the remainder of the hole taking care to firmly pack
soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry
out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a
time and settle with water. Continue this process until the
hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not
recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
6. Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug
properly at the nursery, staking for support is not
necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies
have shown that trees will establish more quickly and
develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not
staked at the time of planting. However, protective
staking may be required on sites where lawn mower
damage, vandalism or windy conditions are concerns. If
staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in
conjunction with a wide flexible tie material will hold the
tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the
trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties
after the first year of growth.
7. Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic
matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts
as a blanket to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature
extremes, both hot and cold, and reduces competition
from grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter,
pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips. A
two to four inch layer is ideal. More than four inches may
cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When
placing mulch, care should be taken so that the actual
trunk of the tree is not covered. This may cause decay of
the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area,
one to two inches wide at the base of the tree, is
sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent
decay.
8. Follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked;
over watering will cause leaves to turn yellow or fall off.
Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more
frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below
the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until
mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require
less frequent watering.
Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of
branches damaged during the planting process. Prune
sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin
necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of
growth in the new location.
After you've completed these eight simple steps, further
routine care and favorable weather conditions will ensure
that your new tree or shrub will grow and thrive. A
valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide a
long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of
all ages. When questions arise about the care of your
tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified Arborist,
tree care or garden center professional for assistance.
The PHC Alternative
Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated
undertaking. You may wish to consider a professional
Plant Health Care (PHC) maintenance program which is
now available from many landscape care companies. Their
program is designed to maintain plant vigor and should
initially include inspections to detect and treat any
existing problems which could be damaging or fatal.
Thereafter, regular inspections and preventive
maintenance will ensure plant health and beauty. Refer to
our Plant Health Care brochure for more information.
For Additional Information
This brochure is one in a series published by the
International Society of Arboriculture as part of its
Consumer Information Program.
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Why Hire an Arborist
Tree Benefits
Tree Values
Tree Selection
Buying High Quality Trees
Avoiding Tree & Utility Conflicts
New Tree Planting
Mature Tree Care
Plant Health Care
Trees and Turf
Proper Mulching Techniques
Pruning Young Trees
Pruning Mature Trees
Why Topping Hurts Trees
Insect & Disease Problems
Avoiding Tree Damage During Construction
Treatment of Trees Damaged by Construction